How To Repair Oil Can Panel Auto Body
View Total Version : Oil-canning door sail metal
TVollnogle
12-05-2006, 05:37 PM
I'm restoring a '70 Datsun 240Z. The passenger'south door has previous damage that was repaired, simply the metallic is manifestly stretched to the limit for holding its shape. When I push on the metallic in the center of the door, it oil-cans in and stays. I can pop it back out easily, but the skin is really bouncy. Is this fixable by using a shrinking hammer and working the metal to tighten the skin? Information technology is a rust-complimentary door, so I hate to discard it if information technology can be repaired. Cheers.
Terry
klandor
12-05-2006, 07:26 PM
Terry that door needs to exist rut shrunk, either by torch, hammer and dollie,or a stud gun oestrus shrink att. .if y'all try to use just the shrinking hammer to try to get together the metal y'all will still exist left with the excess metal in the form of that high area that keeps popping in and out when you push on it.
Shrinking can be washed is one of several ways simply showtime you lot should try to repair the problem without "shrinking". Many times the face of a panel can loose information technology's stiffness considering it gets dented and the paring pulls IN or pushes out the surrounding metallic. On a door yous may have pushed the top of the door up or the bottom of the door down causing the middle to pop in and out easily. If you tin push the metal out so drive the bottom upward or the top down it may make the sheet metal rigid enough to go along information technology'south shape. I usually do this type of "persuasion" using a cake or board and a heavy hammer but I'm careful not to practice further impairment past restraining myself from hit the board too hard.
If the above hammering doesn't work then you lot'll probably need to shrink the metal. A "shrinking hammer" doesn't really compress anything, it has a textured face up then that when you hit the metallic information technology has less tendency to "pinch" it and cause it to thin and stretch. The former method of shrinking was done by heating the metal until you lot had a blister which was tapped downwards onto a dolly which would drive the softer hot metal together then information technology was quenched with water to stabilize the shrinkage. On newer "loftier strength steel" this type of shrinkage quickly causes the metal to go brittle so it'southward not unremarkably the best fix for the problem.
There is likewise the "shrink disk" which is an inexpensive method simply notwithstanding takes h2o to stabilize the metal. I've never used a shrink disk so I can't comment on how well it works but there are a few hither that similar that method.
I'grand a big fan of using a shrink tip on a stud welder. On a piece of clean metallic you tin shrink it quite easily and quickly by holding the shrink tip against the metallic and zapping to estrus a small spot, hold the gun in place for a couple seconds and then move an inch or two away and zap it again. I do this several times in almost a infinitesimal or two and it ordinarily takes care of any shrinking I need done.
If you're straightening metallic you'll find that a stud welder is one of the best tools you can accept at your disposal. This tool tin pull out about dents speedily and easily without damaging the metal likewise equally do your shrinking rapidly without the demand of a torch or water.
If you find that you're interested in ane of these tools you're in luck considering they JUST went down in toll AND they have been further reduced and placed in the Specials Folio on this site. This special volition run through the stop of this month or until they are no longer available.
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/HS9000.jpg
Specials Folio Link w/ Stud Welders (http://autobodystore.internet/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=5SPL)
John Kelly
12-06-2006, 12:09 PM
Len posted good information...here is a slightly different accept on it... something I wrote a while back (edited) :
What helped me work with oil canned panels is to address the perimeter of the panel commencement, and work your way into the middle. Remember about the tension in the plane of the metal, and the smoothness of the surface working together. You must make the panel shine to read it. If this means making it have a little too much crown in it, and so be it. You can easily compress it dorsum down. The crown a panel has puts just the correct corporeality of tension in it to agree it in place without being and so floppy as to pop in and out. Try pushing in on various spots around the perimeter of the area with your thumb while popping the oil can in and out. Once you notice a spot that helps stop the oil can popping, check this pocket-size expanse for smoothness. You lot may need to hammer and dolly to get it back to a smooth but slightly high condition, so shrink to get the tension just right. There may be several areas that need this attention. It is easy to overlook a spot that is affecting the panel and spend also much time playing with the oil tin itself. You lot can also try pushing out instead of in at various spots on the panel to meet the effect on the oil can. If y'all are going to use a torch to shrink, effort heating the metal to the signal right earlier it turns blue instead of heating to ruddy. It will shrink with very footling or no hammering, and stay a chip more than workable than metal that is heated to ruby-red. A shrinking disc is the best manner (my stance) to compress an over-stretched console because it heats simply the high spots without over-heating them. You tin stretch with the hammer and dolly and shrink with the disc many times without damage to your panel until you lot get it right. This allows you to costless yourself from worrying nigh over use of the hammer and dolly which can proceed you lot from getting the job done.
Oil cans can exist very catchy. I recently spent about 7-8 hours fixing one on a quarter panel that I had flared. All the stretching of the fender had resulted in a different pull and tension in the panel. I ended upwardly shrinking metallic that had non been previously stretched to remove a large bow that inhibited the reverse I wanted, stretching diverse areas around the oil can, and pounding from within the quarter panel against the inside of the door opening flange just a little for tension in the plane of the metallic. The bow actually shrunk down 3/16" measured in the centre of a 20" verticle template of the bend earlier I started. I learned a few things on this panel that made it well worth the effort. Hope this makes some sense!
John www.ghiaspecialties.com
TVollnogle
12-06-2006, 07:14 PM
Hey, thanks for the good info, guys. This will give me some options to endeavour. I'll get dorsum to you if I run into any bug or demand further advice.
Terry
Shrinking can be done is ane of several ways but first you should try to repair the problem without "shrinking". Many times the face of a console can loose it'southward stiffness because it gets dented and the paring pulls IN or pushes out the surrounding metal. On a door you may have pushed the peak of the door up or the bottom of the door down causing the centre to popular in and out easily. If you can push the metal out and so drive the bottom up or the top downward it may make the canvass metal rigid enough to keep it's shape. I usually do this type of "persuasion" using a block or board and a heavy hammer but I'm careful not to do further damage by restraining myself from hitting the board too hard.
If the higher up hammering doesn't work so you'll probably need to shrink the metallic. A "shrinking hammer" doesn't really compress anything, information technology has a textured face so that when you hit the metal information technology has less tendency to "pinch" information technology and cause it to thin and stretch. The old method of shrinking was done by heating the metal until you lot had a blister which was tapped down onto a dolly which would bulldoze the softer hot metal together and so it was quenched with h2o to stabilize the shrinkage. On newer "high strength steel" this blazon of shrinkage quickly causes the metal to become breakable then it'due south not usually the best ready for the trouble.
There is likewise the "shrink deejay" which is an cheap method merely still takes water to stabilize the metallic. I've never used a compress deejay so I can't comment on how well information technology works only there are a few here that similar that method.
I'chiliad a big fan of using a shrink tip on a stud welder. On a slice of clean metal y'all can shrink it quite easily and quickly by holding the shrink tip against the metallic and zapping to heat a small-scale spot, hold the gun in identify for a couple seconds then move an inch or ii abroad and zap it again. I do this several times in well-nigh a infinitesimal or two and information technology usually takes care of any shrinking I demand washed.
If you're straightening metallic you'll discover that a stud welder is i of the best tools you can accept at your disposal. This tool tin can pull out most dents speedily and easily without damaging the metal as well as do your shrinking rapidly without the demand of a torch or water.
If y'all notice that you're interested in i of these tools you're in luck considering they But went down in toll AND they have been further reduced and placed in the Specials Page on this site. This special will run through the end of this month or until they are no longer bachelor.
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/HS9000.jpg
Specials Page Link due west/ Stud Welders (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=5SPL)
Len, I shrink the same manner, but wasnt aware of a seperate shrinking tip. I utilise the same tip to weld on the studs. Can you get only the shrinking tip, and how much more constructive is information technology than simply the tip for the studs. I do concord with John too, the surrounding high spots are what I address get-go, and sometimes eliminates the need to shrink, or at least lessens the shrinking needed.
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How To Repair Oil Can Panel Auto Body,
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